Today’s Mayacama wine offer celebrates both a micro producer of outstanding Barolo wines, and a friendship with the amazingly talented importers who introduced me to this producer. Let’s start first with the wine!
Crissante Alessandria is a semi-new Barolo producer on the scene in Northern California and is making some of the most delicious Piemonte wines that I have had the opportunity to taste recently. While the winery has seemingly flown under the radar since the eighties, it’s often true that some of the best bottlings and producers never really make it to the states. Instead, the top wine is kept on native ground for the locals to enjoy.
The Azienda Agricola Crissante Alessandria is located in Santa Maria's Roggeri village in the municipality of La Morra. The winery was founded in 1958 when Crissante Alessandria, the son of winemakers, together with his wife Teresa, decided to make wine from the grapes grown in the family-owned vineyards, grapes which until then were sold to some of the most important cellars of the Langhe.
Within the underground walls of the Roggeri farmhouse in the Santa Maria region of La Morra, Crissante produced his first straight Barolo from Nebbiolo grapes from the Roggeri and Capalot crus.
Over the years the winery grew, new vineyards were purchased, and the separate vinification of the Capalot and Roggeri crus began in the eighties, followed by the Galina cru in 2007.
Capalot Vine Rows
With about six hectares of vineyards that produce Barolo from three different crus, the winery today bottles three different Barolos; "del comune di La Morra," "Galina" and "Capalot."
Their Barolo "del comune di La Morra" is 100% Nebbiolo blended from three separate crus (vineyards); Roggeri (60%), San Biagio (20%), and Bottolotti (20%). The wine ferments for two weeks in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks and is then transferred to large Slavonian oak to rest for 24 months. A little more than 1,300 cases are produced.
“The 2018 Barolo del Comune di La Morra is a classy wine. Floral and nicely lifted, the 2018 is all charm. Crushed red berry fruit, kirsch, spice, mint, cinnamon and orange peel all grace this wonderfully appealing, delicious Barolo from one of La Morra's emerging estates. The Comune has something so many wines lack in 2018: mid-palate pliancy and gorgeous fruit. It is one of the under the radar gems of the vintage.” 92 points Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Barolo “Capalot” is produced from Crissante Alessandria’s prime 0.4-hectare plot, dubbed Capalot. Situated just up the hill from the winery, Capalot is a south facing natural amphitheater of old organic Nebbiolo vines that were first planted in the 1970s and more recently in 2003. Maceration/fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks for two weeks followed by 24 months of aging in large Slavonian oak. Under 350 cases are produced.
“The 2017 Barolo Capalot is a beautiful wine, in fact it is one of the better La Morra Barolos of the vintage. All the elements are so well-balanced. The 2017 is a rich, potent wine, and yet it has enough translucence and finesse to keep those qualities in check. Bright red-toned fruit, blood orange, cinnamon and rose petal are kicked up a few notches in this extroverted yet impeccably crafted Barolo from Alessandria. This is impressive.” 93 points Antonio Galloni, Vinous
 Alberto Tasting Crissante Capalot & Galina
Just below the same strada, overlooking Santa Maria, is Crissante Alessandria’s tiny 0.8-hectare Galina from which they have been bottling Barolo Galina since 2007. Situated just below Capalot, Galina is their “OG” vineyard with own-rooted vines going back to 1922. There’s a little more depth and ballast to this site and so the wine has a slightly different aging regimen. After about two weeks in stainless steel tanks the wine is aged in French oak barrels (barriques and tonneaux) for 24 months. A little more than 450 cases are produced.
“A Barolo with a dense and layered palate of luscious fruit and velvety tannins. Lots of dark-berry, chocolate and dried-meat character. Some cedar, too. A big, rich wine, but shows tension.” 95 points, James Suckling
In 2005, the 8th generation Alberto Alessandria (born 1985), graduated from Alba’s Enological School, “Umberto I”. Alberto joined the family winery in 2007, triggering a series of investments in the operation, and in 2008 when Crissante passed away, the winemaking baton was handed to Alberto.
As I largely believe the wine industry to be built on personal relationships, these beautiful Crissante Alessandria wines were introduced to me by my friends Jonah & Sara Beer, founders of True North Imports. Having first met Jonah when he was working the Northeast market as General Manager and Vice President of Frog’s Leap in the Napa Valley, I was eventually introduced to his lovely wife Sara after I made the move from Connecticut to the North Coast in 2019. Today, Jonah & Sara are not just dear friends, but they are likeminded oenophiles who champion a focused portfolio of French and Italian wines which they source and import under their True North umbrella.
 Alberto Alessandria, Jonah Beer, and Sara Beer
Jonah & Sara were introduced to Alberto Alessandria of Crissante Alessandria and his family in 2018 by David Berry Green, who is one of the foremost scholars of Piemonte wines and is based in Barolo.
“Crissante Alessandria represents the essence of ‘True North’ – wines of place (in this case, the Santa Maria area of La Morra) cultivated and shepherded by a passionate family that has generations of knowledge in farming and winemaking of classic Barolos from this special place,” says Sara.
It is both an honor and a pleasure to offer the Crissante Alessandria wines to the Mayacama membership. I’m sure you have lots of dinner parties planned in the coming weeks, and these wines absolutely shine when paired with the right cuisine.
As always, feel free to let me know if you have any questions regarding the wines being offered today.
Thank you for your continued support, and happy holidays!
Cheers!
Carey Vanderborg, Wine Director
WINES BEING OFFERED:
2018 Crissante Alessandria Barolo del Comune di la Morra (750ml) -- $65/btl -- 92 points Antonio Galloni, Vinous “The 2018 Barolo del Comune di La Morra is a classy wine. Floral and nicely lifted, the 2018 is all charm. Crushed red berry fruit, kirsch, spice, mint, cinnamon and orange peel all grace this wonderfully appealing, delicious Barolo from one of La Morra's emerging estates. The Comune has something so many wines lack in 2018: mid-palate pliancy and gorgeous fruit. It is one of the under the radar gems of the vintage.”
2018 Crissante Alessandria Barolo del Comune di la Morra (1.5L) -- $175/btl
2017 Crissante Alessandria Barolo Capalot -- $90/btl -- 93 points Antonio Galloni, Vinous “The 2017 Barolo Capalot is a beautiful wine, in fact it is one of the better La Morra Barolos of the vintage. All the elements are so well-balanced. The 2017 is a rich, potent wine, and yet it has enough translucence and finesse to keep those qualities in check. Bright red-toned fruit, blood orange, cinnamon and rose petal are kicked up a few notches in this extroverted yet impeccably crafted Barolo from Alessandria. This is impressive.”
2017 Crissante Alessandria Barolo Galina (750ml) -- $90/btl -- 95 points, James Suckling “A Barolo with a dense and layered palate of luscious fruit and velvety tannins. Lots of dark-berry, chocolate and dried-meat character. Some cedar, too. A big, rich wine, but shows tension.”
2017 Crissante Alessandria Barolo Galina (1.5L) -- $205 |